彝族男人的身份符号“天菩萨”——凉山彝族男人发髻的服饰文化内涵
Tianpusa，Sign of the Status of the Yi Male:
Costume Cultural Signification of the Hair Coil of the Liangshan Yi Male

　　攀枝花学院艺术学院

　　【摘要】本文对四川大凉山彝族男人发髻“天菩萨”的服饰特征及文化心里特征进行初步的探讨。论述了头发在中国人传统观念中的生命意义和服饰文化内涵；并试图以此为基础展开对民族服饰、发式及其流变关系研究；期望由此展开对民族服饰、发式在当代服饰流行文化中的意义、民族文化在当代社会发展中的地位和价值等问题的思考。

　　关键词：“天菩萨” 彝族男人 服饰文化

　　Abstract

　　This paper is a preliminary examination into the features and cultural psychological characters of the “Tianpusao”, a hair coil of the old Liangshan Yi Male. It discusses the meaning of hair to life in traditional Chinese ideas, as well as its significance in the costume culture; and attempts to study the relationship among ethnic costume, hair style and their evolutions, in an attempt to undertake thinking on issues such as the meaning of ethnic costume and hair style in contemporary fashion culture, and the status and values of ethnic culture in contemporary social development.

　　Keywords: “tianpusa”─Yi male─costum culture

　　作者简介：
　　苏晓燕，1984年毕业于西南师范大学美术系油画专业，1998年在中央工艺美术学院学习服装设计。2003年在中央美术学院设计学院读访问学者，师从许平教授研究设计理论，开始从事少数民族服饰文化研究。主要代表作品有：《民间美术与现代审美意识》攀枝花学院学报2003年1期；《服饰是文化的表征》攀枝花学院学报2004年3期；《云南直苴村民族服装探议》装饰2004年9期。时装摄影作品《花开时节》《阳光》入选《四川摄影家》大型摄影画册。

　　About the author:
　　Su Xiaoyan, graduated from the Fine Arts Dept., Southwest Normal University in1984; Studied Costume Design at the Central Arts and Crafts Academy in Beijing in1998; One Year Visiting Scholar at the School of Design, Central Academy of Fine Arts in 2003. Since then she began research in ethnic costume culture. Her main publications include: “Folk Art and Modern Aesthetic”, Journal of Panzhihua College, 2003(1); “Costume as the Representation of Culture”, Journal of Panzhihua College, 2004(3), and “Exploration of the Ethnic Costume of the Zhiju Village, Yunnan Province”, Decoration, 2004(9).