广西那坡县念毕白彝民族服饰文化调查研究
A Survey of Sartorial Culture among the Nianbi White Yi of Napo County, Guangxi

　　广西民族文化艺术研究院

　　【摘要】2004年11月，笔者赴广西那坡县城厢镇达腊村念毕屯，以当地富有代表性的白彝服饰为主要切入点，对当地的自然生态、民族文化传统特别是作为非物质文化遗产的民俗、服饰传说、审美观念、服饰制作技艺等进行了调查研究，考察产生这种服饰艺术的当地文化生态状况，尝试从理论上探索彝族优秀文化艺术遗产保护的方法、途径。论文包括以下主要部分：一、白彝民族服饰基本形制；二、民族服饰存在的生产生活环境及习俗文化环境；三、服饰的使用；四、服饰制作；五、村民对服饰的态度。通过从多角度调查了解当地服饰文化生态，笔者指出：念毕白彝服饰从制作到使用到传承都不是一种封闭独立的文化事项，而是水乳交融地渗透入生产生活以及民俗文化活动之中。服饰文化传承保护面临的最主要的问题是：一、服饰制作面临材料上的生态资源缺乏；二、有关服饰的传说这种村民中的口传文化传统正面临削弱甚至缺失；三、对服饰的态度反映了现代经济发展对传统文化的冲击。因此，要保护和传承这种服饰文化，首先应将其放在整体的社会文化生态环境中，从保护策略上，要坚持走生产发展、生活富裕、生态良好的文明发展道路；其次，将服饰文化的保护落实到具体制作手工技艺的传承上，探讨适应地方经济文化发展的社区传承模式；最后应做关于彝族服饰的文化记忆的追访，为村民追溯他们原有的服饰文化内涵和审美体验，这样，服饰的文化意义才能得到体会与传递。

　　关键词：念毕白彝 民族服饰 文化生态 保护

　　Abstract

　　In November of 2004, the author went to Nianbi Village, Chengxiang Town, Napo County, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, taking local typical dress and adornment of Bai Yi Ethnic Minority (a branch of Yi Ethnic Minority) as a starting point, to conduct an investigation and research into local natural ecology, the cultural tradition of the minority nationality, especially the material cultural legacy, such as folk-customs, legends of dress and adornment, aesthetic standards, the artistry of dress and adornment manufacture etc., and to make efforts in collecting information on the art of dress and adornment of the minority nationality, and investigating local cultural ecology that produced this art of dress and adornment, trying to explore methods and approaches from theory to protect this excellent cultural legacy of Bai Yi Ethnic Minority. The thesis includes following main components:

　　1. The basic form of Bai Yi people's traditional dress and adornment;
　　2. The production and living conditions and culture and folk-custom environment which the dress and adornment of the minority nationality exists in;
　　3. How did people there use these items of clothing and adornments;
　　4. The manufacture of the dress and adornments; and
　　5. Local people's attitude toward their traditional dress and adornment.

　　The author points out that manufacture, use and handing down of Nianbi’s dress and adornment of the minority nationality of Bai Yi is not an enclosed cultural phenomenon, it mixes with production, ordinary life, and folkloric cultural activities like milk and water. The most serious problems that the inheritance and protection of culture of the dress and adornment is facing are: 1. lacking ecological resources, which are the materials of making these dress and adornment; 2. as an oral cultural tradition, the legend of dress and adornment has been weakened, even dismissed; 3. the attitude towards traditional dress and adornment has reflected the impact of modern economic development towards traditional culture. So that in order to protect this culture and hand it down. Firstly, we should place it in the whole environment of social-cultural ecology. The protection strategy is that guided by scientific development idea, and it is necessary to adhere to the path of civilization development, with production progress, common prosperity and good ecological environment. Secondly, the protection of dress and adornment culture needs to assure that the concrete artistry of dress and adornment manufacture is handed down in mode of community inheritance that meets local economic and cultural development should be explored. Thirdly, the cultural memory of dress and adornment of the Bai Yi should be recalled, having the villagers recall the meaning of their original dress and adornment culture and aesthetic experience. Only in this way can the significance of dress and adornment culture be experienced and handed down from generation to generation.
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　　Keywords: Bai Yi─dress and adornment─local cultural ecology─protection

　　作者简介：
　　史　晖，女，1974年生，助理研究员，文学硕士，供职于广西民族文化艺术研究院，先在研究院《民族艺术》杂志社从事编辑工作，后转入研究院民族艺术研究中心，2002年赴北京中国艺术研究院，就读美术学专业在职研究生班，目前主要从事美术考古、民族民间文化艺术的调查研究，发表有《论市场经济条件下的文化建设》、《关于广西高校艺术教育的思考》、《红水河流域民族史诗比较研究》、《广西麻江型铜鼓与陶瓷龙文饰比较研究》、《广西都安、罗城两县语言态度调查研究》、《第六届广西戏剧展舞台美术实践的思考》等主要论文。

　　About the author:
　　Shi Hui, born in 1974, is Assistant Research Fellow, Master of Arts, and works in Guangxi Ethnic Culture and Arts Research Institute. She previously worked in magazine “Ethnic Arts ” as an editor, then turned to Ethnic Arts Research Center under Guangxi Ethnic Culture and Arts Research Institute. In 2002, she went to China Arts Research Institute, Beijing, and has been studying in the class of on-the-job graduate students, majoring in fine arts. At present, she engages in archaeology on fine arts and in investigation and research in ethnic and folk culture and arts. Representative articles include: “Culture Construction under the Condition of Market Economy”; “Art Education in Guangxi Colleges and Universities”; “Comparative Research on Ethnic Epics in Hongshuihe River Valley”; “Comparative Research on Bronze Drums of the Majiang Type with Ceramics with Dragon Sculptine”; “An Investigation and Study of the Attitude Toward Languages used in Du'an and Luocheng Counties in Guangxi”; “Thinking about the Stage Art of the 6th Drama Exhibition in Guangxi”.